Twilight of the Hobo: Romance Dies Hard on the American Rails

I used to fantasize about riding the rails a lot when I was younger.

In this article, a British author recounts his adventures riding the rails with tramps and hoboes.
The piece begins a little too preciously, too "writer-y", but turns into a compelling read.

"The temperature dips with the sun, and I stuff my clothes with newspaper, remembering Doc’s dictum: “Tramps, bums and hobos all use The Wall Street Journal for insulation, but the hobo reads it first.” The night clears and the stars come out like nobody’s watching. I am lulled by the symphonic racket of a thousand train parts in seeming revolt against one another. Peace in pandemonium."